It’s Monday at 4:00 am and, suddenly, all the lights go off simultaneously; next thing you know, there are people wearing bizarre costumes and masks while fifing/drumming with lamps on their heads. Where in the world would this ever happen? In no other place than Switzerland, of course! You’ve probably already heard that the Swiss like to do things a bit different from time to time, well, this is by no means the exception.
In Basel, the Carnival (Fastnacht, in Standard German) kicks off at exactly four in the morning the Monday after Ash Wednesday, why? I’m not quite sure, but all I know is that the Catholic Church is not a big fan of the timing, more on that later.
The journey for me started at ~23:45 when we hopped on a DB train. The ride was not unusual, since I’ve been to Basel several times before, due to its proximity to Freiburg. This time, however, the train was mostly full with people who were really excited about the famous basler Fasnacht Morgenstraich–which I’ll translate as “Basel Carnival Morning Parade”–who were already drinking their badischer Wein (von der Soonneee verwöööhnt!) literally left and right.
Upon arrival, our group started growing because there were several people we met on the way, as well as others whom we already knew but did not know were coming, so we decided to walk from the Basel Badischer Bahnhof, in north Basel, to the center city, which took somewhere between 15 and 30 minutes. The walk there was not as boring as I had expected it to be, mainly because we stopped several times to take photos/eat/chat with drunken-locals-with-an-even-more-incomprehensible-Swiss-German (I even took a photo with one, but had to delete to make space for videos). Another interesting stop was at a sausage booth, just after crossing the Rhein. At said booth, I asked the person selling the food for a “Weißwuascht,” and then the man chuckled and told me something along the lines of “Weißwurst? Mr sin i dr Schwiiz, nid i Bayern!” (“White sausage? We’re in Switzerland, not in Bavaria!”) and then he laughed again and told me the Swiss-German word for it, but it was impossible to pronounce and at the moment I can’t remember it. Later on, a friend asked a man in the street when the “Umzug” was coming and he was told that there are no Umzugs in Switzerland, that those happen in Germany and that, however, there is a “Straich” (Streich, in Standard German) coming at four in the morning. The Swiss seem to be very proud of their culture and non-German (?) heritage, or at least that’s the impression I’ve gotten every time I’ve been there, but maybe it seems that way to me because people here don’t seem to feel (or admit to) being proud of their German heritage since that’s still a taboo, for obvious reasons.
The parade itself was very surreal, to say the least. By around three or so we were fed and awaiting what we knew was about to come, so we decided to go to one of the streets close to one of the bigger churches (not the Münster). By this hour there were already thousands upon thousands of anxious spectators, most of which seemed to be Swiss. Then, suddenly, it all got dark in an instant, people cheered and fifing was heard. From then on everything seemed, very bizarre and weird in the best possible way. The costumes they were wearing, along with their masks, somehow did not seem out of place when one looked at the lamps they wore on their heads.
There was more to the Morgenstraich than the music and the light. Something else that always captivates the attention of the spectators is the message each float displays. This year, some of the more popular topics were: the Pope, Environmental Problems, Retirment Age, Russia, and loss of ‘Swiss’ Culture–even Homer (not the Odyssey one, but the Simpsons one) made a cameo! The main issue they had with Pope Benedict XVI was his antiquated, colonialistic and intolerant view of the world. Some of the main things they mentioned were his intolerance of other non-Catholic Churches and his crazy public statements, such as saying in Brazil that the natives in South Amercia were ’silently longing’ for Christianity and arguing that Galileo’s trail was fair and just. Of course, no critique of the Catholic Church would be complete without the mentioning the opposition to contraceptives.
(Ratzikal: Roma locuta. Causa finita. Locus Dei.) 
(“Only one Church protects eternally and this Church: that’s me”)
That’s just a quick sample of the many floats that were there. The last hour or so of our stay was different, because we started walking between musical groups with some of the locals, the interesting part, though scary at some points, is that the groups sometimes stopped while those behind us continued on, and then turned around and walked towards us! This shenanigans continued until our departure, sometime between 6- and 7:30. I was able to go to bed by just around 8:30–good times. This semester is virtually over now. What’s next? Sverige.
- Bork Bork.








A small sign (smaller than the “Welcome to North Carolina” signs) let us know we had entered France and, once again, everything suddenly (within a few dozen feet) changed to French, but it wasn’t just the language, but other things like speed limits and road signs looked slightly different. The whole ride from the back seat seemed like a blurry watercolor painting with oil pastel highlights, specially when driving in the Mediterranean area where Italy meets France: driving next to precipice with mountains on one side and the sea on the other.

Some of the main differences are that it’s December now, which means that it gets dark by 16:30 and it is cold, very cold–though it hasn’t been as cold lately as it had been; a couple of weeks ago when we had several weeks of -5 °C mornings. I quite like the cold here, but only when we get snow; that is the reason why I went with some friends to 
I went to
Which brings me to my next point: this area of Austria, not unlike Bavaria, is VERY Catholic. In the old area of town, most–if not all–important buildings, as well as others of less significance, had façades with busts of Virgin Mary holding Baby Jesus in her arms. There were also crucifixes in the corners of big rooms and everybody proudly told you they were Catholic and also stated that virtually everybody in Innsbruck is Catholic. It was more present and latent than even in Ecuador, it seemed, and it contrasted starkly with Germany’s predominant deism and just-cultural Christianity. Even Freiburg does not feel as Catholic as Innsbruck and it seems like we have a Catholic church in every block. Among some of the things we did, we went to the Aline Zoo, where I saw bears and beavers up-close. There were also owls, wolves, lynxes, etc… On the way back to Germany we went on a little detour and stopped by what is arguably the most famous castle in the world:
Most people write in their travel blogs about their anecdotes and anything else they find out of the ordinary in comparison to their normal life, back at home, but this place, to some degree, also feels like home now. Sitting here, writing this entry, it feels like I’ve always lived here in Freiburg, like I belong here; I think that’s the reason why I haven’t been blogging much. Waking up every morning, eating my German cereal (sorry, no
Things are changing here as well: the Bächle (pictured) are not currently running and “the leaves that [were] green turn[ed] to brown.” But perhaps the main thing that has changed is that I am no longer in what seemed like a very long vacation; classes have started. I have almost finished my first two week of regular classes and I am slowly transitioning into the academic mood in which I need to be, but it is not very easy, since I haven’t had any real university work since the end of April. The classes I am taking are not overly difficult, but that is a good thing this semester because I not only need to readjust to the academic environment, but I also need to adjust to the German academic environment. The class in which I have to do the most work is linguistics, but it is definitely worth it since I am learning a lot and I am enjoying it, but perhaps most of my classmates will see that as masochism. I also will not be part of that 40% of students who fail the class (durchfallen), but in order for that to happen I must spend a lot of time outside of class preparing myself by doing things like analyzing the what happens in my mouth when I make certain sounds and pairing them with their corresponding 


I have spent just about a month here in Germany and I am so adjusted, that I over-correct my typing end end up pressing the ‘y’ button instead of the ‘z’ (they’re switched in German keyboards). I also walk everywhere and using a tram is as natural as breathing. I really like not having to give a tip at restaurants and always just paying the shown amount (taxes are already included in the price), but the service here is definitely slower and not as friendly as in most places in the USA. I’ve adjusted to that, as I also have learned to deal with the bureaucracy and bad costumer service. I had a problem with my cellphone service a couple of days ago: I decided to change my pre-paid service (O2 Loop) to a post-paid plan service without a contract (O2 Genion S, ohne Handy), since it is much cheaper and it also gives me a local number for my “home zone”, but the salesman somehow put me in the one with a Basispreis (Genion M, with 10€ Basispreis per month, 24 month contract) and not the one below (without a Basispreis and also without a contract) even though I had specifically told him I did not want a contract since I was going to spend less than a year in the country. Anyway, I called costumer service and finally fixed it, but they were not as apologetic and friendly as US costumer service would have been. The number porting from the pre-paid is still an issue, but it is nowhere as important as not having the plan I wanted. In that day I accomplished a lot, specially because I finally got my residence permit after waiting about 2 hours and being the last person before they closed for the day (8-12 Öffnungszeiten). I also registered at the university (Immatrikulation), which means I am finally done with the necessary paper work, though smaller things will come.
This incident is more funny than annoying or upsetting, which what I am about to tell is. As you may have read on previous entries, I am not a big fan of German bureaucrazy, but some things are just ridiculous. A couple of days ago I went, for the second time, to try to get my residency permit; this time I only had to wait in line for about an hour. Once I finally had the chance to talk to her, but she told I could not get my residence permit until I registered at the university, which I cannot do without the residency permit. What? Yes. That really upsets me, specially because she did she say she recognizes that it is a Teufelskreis, but that some countries have privileges and can get the Aufenhaltserlaubnis (residence permit) without the Immatrikulation (registration). What now? Well, I am waiting until next week when I can do my Immatrikulation so that I can then, hopefully, get the Aufenhaltserlaubnis.













